FAQ

How to choose an air compressor

There is a lot of confusion out there about selecting the right size air compressor to run your air tools. Basically, there are several factors to look at when choosing the proper air compressor for your shop or garage. You should understand these factors enough to be able to talk to your local salesman and select the right compressor.
The Primeiro criteria to consider is horse power rating. Many people assume the higher the horsepower rating on the box, the better the air compressor. However, these ratings are not a true representation of the power the compressor has. You will need to look at the power the compressor draws in electricity. For example, a 5HP unit may need around 15 amps from a normal 110 volt circuit. This rating will only give you approximately 2HP. The 5HP rating the manufacturer is toting is inflated.

In order to really get 5HP you will need at least 24 amps from a 220 volt circuit. If you power tools say that you need a 5HP compressor to run, then you need to get the industrial unit that runs at 24 amps. Otherwise you will not have enough air to run your impact wrench or other air tools.

If you are wondering why the stores can sell these air compressors without the true 5HP rating, it is because most users don't use impact wrenches. If you are using the compressor to blow up a tire or to inflate a raft, you don't need 5HP. However, if you are using tools that have ratings for 5HP then you need to pay the money to get a quality compressor.

proxima, you will need to figure out how much PSI you will need. PSI stands for `pounds per square inch'. Most of the commonly used air tools require about 90 PSI to operate correctly. Just like 5HP may not be truly 5HP, you can be deceived by the ratings for PSI also.

You will still need a compressor with a higher shut-off pressure than 90 PSI if you are using tools rated for 90 PSI. Most air compressors that you find at the local hardware store are "single-stage" and shut off at 125 - 135 PSI. You may think this is more than adequate for your tools.

Generally, these light duty compressors shut off at 100 psi this doesn't account for the pressure that you will lose in the line to your power tool. The little light duty compressor will barely run an impact wrench. A small compressor may be fine for light duty garage use. But if you really intend use your air tool, more is definitely better.
Many industrial compressors are "two-stage," which means they build up to shut-off pressure in two stages. The Primeiro stage builds to about 90 PSI and the second stage builds to 175 PSI. This gives you the pressure needed to run some of your more demanding tools for a longer period of time.

You will proxima want to look at the `cubic feet per minute' (CFM). Cubic feet per minute is a measurement of volume. Basically it is how much air is being moved. Air tools require a certain amount of air volume to run on. PSI is just part of equation.

Don't be confused by the different CFM ratings at different pressure charts. Each manufacturer tries to make their product look better by giving higher CFM ratings at different pressures. The only real concern is how much CFM you will get at 90 PSI. Remember 90 PSI is what most air tools require to operate. Generally, air tools require 4 - 6 CFM. A good rule of thumb on air compressors is you should get 3 -4 CFM per real HP at 90 PSI.

The final factor to consider is tank size. For example, 30 gallon is a common tank size. So the question remains, how large a tank will you need? Primeiro of all, don't confuse a large tank with more run time for your air tools. If you use your impact intermittently, a large tank is fine.

However if you have a need for continuous use, you will need a small tank with big enough pump and motor. If the pump and motor are powerful enough, you shouldn't run out of air. You can save some dollars by purchasing an air compressor with a large tank and smaller motor for intermittent use. If you need to run a 1" impact wrench (about 20 CFM) intermittently, and have a small compressor with a large tank, you might have enough air stored in the tank to do the job. However, if you are constantly running your air tool, you will need to invest in a more powerful air compressor to do the job.

In summary, you need to evaluate what you will be using your compressor for. Look at motor size (HP), pressure (PSI), air volume (CFM), and tank size. You should be able to select the air compressor armed with this information.

What is pressure?
Pressure is a measurement of force in this case relative to our normal atmospheric pressure (1 bar or approx 15psi). Most air tools etc operate at a pressure between 2 bar (30psi) and 6 bar (90psi). Spray painting requires lower pressure than some air tools, as too high a pressure will cause the paint or material to over atomise resulting in the material being lost to the atmosphere. Most car tyres are inflated to between 1.5 - 2 .5 bar (22 - 35psi). Most air tools including drills, sanders, nailers and chisels etc will operate at a pressure of 6 bar (90psi) approx.

Why are compressors sometimes fitted to a tank?
The air receiver or tank allows the storage and control of compressed air. A device on most compressors maintains pressure at a pre-determined pressure range, allowing the compressor to operate automatically as the air is used, switching on and off accordingly. The air receiver will also be fitted with a safety devise to anteriorent over pressurisation, a means of draining condensate and various outlet sockets. The size of air receiver (usually measured in litres) will normally be proportional to the size or capacity of air compressor fitted. Air compressors are available without an air receiver and these must be switched on/off manually during use.

How do I know which size of air compressor to choose?
The size of compressor to choose can be ascertained by the following criteria.
What power supply is available? Single phase 230v or three phase 400v or maybe none of these. If single phase power only is available then the largest machine you can operate will be driven by an electric motor of no more than 2.2kw (3hp) usually. Air compressors running from three phase 400v power are available in larger capacities but are not normally considered portable due to the availability of three phase power.
Where there is no source of electrical power a compressor powered by a diesel or petrol engine may be chosen.

What determines the capacity of compressor that is needed?
The compressor capacity required will be determined by the number of people using air tools at the same time, the frequency of use and the type of tools being used. A simple guide is to take the tools that require the most volume of air and multiply these by the number of people who could be using these tools at the same time. The frequency of use is an important factor, if the tools are to be used continuously then a compressor should be oversized in order to anteriorent excessive wear on the compressor. In applications where the compressor is used infrequently then the air receiver is a valuable buffer of stored compressed air. By fitting a larger air receiver a slightly smaller compressor can be used in applications where infrequent use is anticipated. The larger air receiver will compromise portability however, and this should also be considered.
All of the air tools or accessories that are used will require both a certain pressure of air as well as a certain volume of air to be supplied. Whilst most compressors will provide ample pressure, what differentiates a small compressor from a large one is the volume of air that is produced measured in litres/min, cu metres/min or cu feet/min (cfm) and the amount of air produced will be determined by the power of the electric motor and the type of compressor fitted.
So in brief the main points to consider when selecting an air compressor are.

How to Choose the Right Air Compressor
Air compressors have been around for well over 100 years and have as many uses as there are tools that use air. One reason for their popularity is because air as a resource is safe, flexible, clean and convenient.  These machines have evolved into highly reliable pieces of equipment that are almost indispensable in most of the applications they serve. Compressors can come in a wide variety of different types and sizes.

Ultimately, as with any tool, air tools and the compressors that drive them, have to save the user time and money on any given project. Most compressed air tools are more powerful and typically lighter than standard electric tools or battery powered cordless tools. They are used by virtually every industrial sector from aircraft to automobiles to dairy farming to textiles.

While there are many types of compressors, they all perform the same function, which is to increase the pressure and reduce the volume of a given gas such as air. The most common type of compressors work by filling a chamber with air and then reducing the chamber’s volume. These are called positive displacement compressors. They are the most widely available compressors and include reciprocating, rotary screw and rotary vane compressors.

Of all the positive displacement compressors, Reciprocating or Pistao compressors are the most commonly available on the market and can be found in ranges from fractional to very high horsepower. These compressors are sold world wide by many mass marketers and a large variety of retail outlets.

Rotary compressors (Screw and Vane) and the centrifugal compressors are also commonly found but in more of an industrial/commercial environment. Normally they are operated at significantly higher horsepower and flow rates, which makes them more expensive buy and to operate.

The following paragraphs contain some very general information on Pistao compressors that will allow for a more informed decision concerning the type and size of compressor being considered.

Single Stage and Two Stage Reciprocating Pumps
Reciprocating (Pistao) Compressors can be widely found in two primary configurations; Single Stage and Two Stage.

Single stage air compressors work by drawing air in and subsequently compressing the air to its final pressure in single Pistao stroke. Single stage air compressors can attain pressures of up to 150 PSI. Typically, a single stage pump will have a higher CFM(Cubic Feet per Minute) rating than a two stage pump because every cylinder is drawing in air and compressing it with air during every rotation.

Two stage air compressors work in a very similar manner with the primary difference being that they compress the air in 2 steps or stages. During the Primeiro step or stage, air is drawn in and compressed to an intermediate pressure. After being compressed in the Primeiro stage, the air is piped, usually through an intercooler where the air is allowed to cool, to be compressed in the final or second stage. Two stage compressors are normally good for pressures up to 200psi. Two stage pumps are more efficient at higher pressures because the air is cooled between the stages.

DCFM, SCFM and ACFM
            Displaced CFM (DCFM) is a mathematical formula that calculates the bore, stroke and rpm into a CFM figure(Bore x stroke x rpm/2200=DCFM). This figure will always be the highest CFM because this formula does not take into account variables like temperature, atmospheric pressure, humidity, friction and heat dissipation.
Another CFM term often used is Standard CFM (SCFM).  It defined as the measured flow of free air and converted to a standard set of reference conditions (14.5 PSIA, 68 Degrees F, and 0% relative humidity).

Yet another CFM term is Actual CFM (ACFM). AFCM can be determined in a number of different ways. The most common methods include measuring the volume of air that is moved through an orphic plate or measuring pump up times on large compressor tanks and running through a simple calculation. This CFM number takes in effect all the variables and will give the true output of the pump at the current working conditions (i.e. temperature, altitude, humidity, …).

Often times, CFM numbers are also shown at various pressures.  These numbers can be very useful to help determine if a compressor produces enough CFM for the desired application, but can be confusing when comparing differing pressures or volumes or different compressors.

The best way of comparing compressors is through SCFM. Since all the measurements are calculated back to a set of reference standard conditions, it levels the playing field among the multitude of different manufacturers.

Electric Motors and Horsepower
         Compressors are often rated by Horsepower(HP). As simple as this sounds, there are different variations of HP.  Some compressor manufacturers rate their air compressors by peak horsepower, also known as brake horsepower. Peak horsepower is the maximum output that a motor can produce while the motor has the start windings engaged. Peak HP can be as much as 5-7 times the rated or running HP. Under normal operating conditions, the start windings are only engaged for a small fraction of a second. Therefore, using peak horsepower as a comparison tool can be somewhat misleading since under normal operating conditions the motor only develops this horsepower during startup.  If  a motor drive system causes the start winding to remain engaged for a long period of time, the motor will either overheat if it has thermal protection or fail prematurely.
Most electric motor manufacturers rate their motors by the horsepower developed after the motor has come up to its designed operating rpm’s and disengaged the start windings. This is often referred to as running or rated horsepower and is a true indication of the HP a motor can sustain over a long period of time.

Some other factors to consider when looking at motors is Duty Cycle and Service Factor.  Duty cycle is normally rated as either intermittent or continuous and is defined as the time rating under full load.   In other words can the motor run at full load horsepower continuously or only intermittently. The other of the two noteworthy factors is the Service Factor (S.F.) rating of the motor. It is defined as the percentage of rated horsepower at which the motor can safely operate (i.e. 1.15 SF = 115% of rated HP).  Higher service factors allow motors to handle more varied conditions without causing motor overheating or premature motor failure.  Examples that could cause a motor to run within its Service Factor could be caused by low voltage, higher ambient temperatures, higher startup load …etc.

Note: Many companies are now eliminating the peak HP reference and instead using SCFM as a more accurate performance indicator.

Air Compressor Buying Guidelines
            Before choosing any compressor to purchase, understanding the compressor’s uses will ensure that the machine can do the required job. Buying a compressor that is too small will waste valuable time. Buying a compressor that is way too large will waste valuable resources. (See the CFM Usage Chart)
It is worth noting that the price of a compressor cannot be based solely on the up front purchase price of the unit. The price of any item should be based on the overall cost over an extended period of time or the life of the unit. Inexpensive units are designed to be disposable, like lighters.

The questions that need to be answered are:

1.)   What is the maximum required operating pressure?

This will determine if a Single Stage or Two Stage compressor will be needed

2.)   What is the maximum required CFM usage?

      Add up all of the air tools that are to be used at the same time.  When looking at the compressor, add approximately 30% to the determined CFM number. This  will allow for a reasonable buffer against unknown or uncommon compressor    usage.

Do not simply add up all of the air tools that will be used throughout the work day since this will produce an inflated CFM number and require the purchase of an overly large compressor.

3.)   Does the machine need to be portable or stationary?

Determine whether or not the unit will need to be moved around your facility or work site regularly or if it will be a stationary unit. This will aid in determining other factors such as size and weight. Higher pressures and volumes will require the unit to be larger in size and heavier in weight since horsepower requirements, pumping systems, chassis construction, electrical components, etc... will have to be larger to accommodate these increases.

4.)   What type of drive system is needed? Electric Motor or Gasoline Engine?

Knowing the environment that the compressor is to be used in will determine what type of drive system the machine will need.  If there is always electrical power available, then the drive system should be an electric motor since they are significantly less expensive to buy and run and require less overall maintenance. If electrical power is not always available then the convenience of a gasoline engine driven compressor will be the way to go.  They offer the best in portability and work area flexibility.

5.)   What receiver tank size will be needed?

The size of the compressor tank, usually measured in gallons, should be determined by the overall type of usage.  If the usage is in short quick concentrated bursts, such as an air nailer, then a small tank size can be used. If the unit is to sustain long periods of usage, such as a board sander or impact wrench, a larger tank size will be necessary.

*add 30% to average CFM to get required CFM

Finding the home compressor right for you

Step1
Understand that all air compressors work on the scientific principle that you can compress a gas (air) into a storage tank, and when you release the compressed air (a little at a time) the pressure of that burst of air coming out will be strong enough to power all kinds of tools.
Step2
Compare air compressors by air flow (measured in CFM (cubic feet per minute) or SCFM (standard cubic feet per minute). Home air compressors are usually labeled with their SCFM or CFM at 90 pounds per square inch (PSI).
Smaller household tools (i.e. nailers) usually require 1-5 CFM, while larger tools (i.e. grinders) may need up to 10 CFM.
Step3
Determine the size of the storage tank you need by evaluating how you plan to use your home air compressor. A larger storage tank will be able to power tools longer than a smaller tank, but depending on your application that may not be an issue. For example, tools like a power nailer or an impact wrench only need a short burst of air while other tools such as a paint sprayer need a consistent supply of air during their longer operating time and probably a larger tank.
Step4
Consider where you will be using your compressor. If you plan on using the compressor inside your home, an electric motor is the safe choice. Gasoline-powered compressors are usually more powerful than electric-powered compressors, but their exhaust fumes make them impractical for use inside a home or building.
Step5
Think about the weight and shape of the compressor. Horizontal compressors are usually easier to carry or move. However, vertical compressors take up less storage space. Also, keep in mind some gasoline-powered compressors can be quite heavy and may need more than one person to move them.
Step6
Think about how you plane to use your home compressor and choose the one right for you by ensuring your compressor has enough air flow to power the tools you want to use and a tank large enough to keep your tools operating.

What is CFM?

1. CFM (cubic feet per minute) refers to the volume of air produced by the compressor at a given pressure or PSI (pounds per square inch) .

What size tank do I need?

1. The size of the compressor tank, usually measured in gallons, should be determined by the overall type of usage. If the usage is short quick concentrated spurts, such as a nailer then a small tank can be used. If the unit is to sustain long periods of usage, such as a board sander or impact wrench, a larger tank will be necessary.

What voltage do I run on?

1. Most direct-drive electric compressors run on a standard 110 volt circuit. For jobs that require more air, usually a 220 volt will be your only choice. When using a stationary compressor, you will need to know what power supply you have (208V, 230V, or 460V) and if it is single or three phase power. The majority of the time units with motors of 5HP or more require a magnetic starter which is hard wired into the power supply. This is used to protect the motor from overloading.

Do I need Single-Stage or Two Stage pump?

1. Single stage air compressors work by drawing air in and compressing the air to its final stage in a single Pistao stroke. Pressures up to 150 PSI.
2. Two stage compressors work in a similar manner with the difference being that they compress the air in 2 steps. After the air is compressed in the Primeiro step, it is then compressed again. Pressures up to 200 PSI. If you require constant pressure of 100 PSI, get a 2 stage.

Why do I get water in my lines?

1. When air is compressed it gets hot. And when the air cools moisture condenses out of it. To anteriorent air in the lines drain the air tank frequently. You could consider adding an automatic drain to eliminate having to do this manually. Also adding a water trap to your lines can help. In some commercial situations an air dryer can be installed.

How do I anteriorent oil in the airlines?

1. A Coalescing filter will take out most of the oil, but if you are getting a lot of oil in your lines, then the Pistao rings should be replaced.

Why is my compressor running hot?

1. Elevated temperature may be caused by restricted air flow, the temperature of the room, or the incorrect oil level.

Motor will not run

1. Improper line voltage - check line voltage, change lines as required.
2. Poor contact on motor terminals or starter connections - ensure good contact on motor terminals and starter connections.
3. Improper starter heaters - install proper starter heaters.

Oil in discharge gas

1. Clogged or dirty inlet and/or discharge filter - replace filter element.
2. Oil viscosity too low - Drain existing lubricant from frame. Refill with proper lubricant.
3. Oil level too high - Drain lubricant from frame to proper level.
4. Detergent type lubricant being used - Drain existing lubricant from frame. Refill with specified lubricant.
5. Pistao rings damaged or worn (broken, rough, scratched, excessive end gap or side {clearance) - Replace Pistao rings.
6. Pistao rings not seated, stuck in grooves, or end gaps not staggered. - Clean and adjust Pistao rings. Replace as required.
7. Cylinder scratched, worn or scored. - Replace or repair as required.
8. Pistao scratched, worn or scored. - Repair or replace as required.

Knocks or rattles

1. Loose belt wheel or motor pulley. Excessive end play in motor shaft. - Check belt wheel, motor pulley and shaft. Repair or replace as required.
2. Valves leaking, broken, carbonized or loose. - Check valves. Clean and replace as required.
3. Carbon build-up on top of Pistao(s). - Clean Pistao(s). Repair or replace parts as required.
4. Cylinder scratched, worn or scored. - Replace or repair as required.
5. Pistao scratched, worn or scored. - Repair or replace as required.
6. Defective ball bearings on crankshaft or motor shaft. - Check ball bearings. Replace as required.

Gas delivery has dropped off

1. Clogged or dirty inlet and/or discharge filter - replace filter element.
2. Gas leaks in piping (on compressor or external piping/system). - Check tubing and connections. Repair or replace as required.
3. Valves leaking, broken, carbonized or loose. - Check valves. Clean and replace as required.
4. Automatic condensate drain valve defective - Inspect drain valve. Repair or replace as required.
5. Pistao rings damaged or worn (broken, rough, scratched, excessive end gap or side clearance) - Replace Pistao rings.
6. Pistao rings not seated, stuck in grooves, or end gaps not staggered. - Clean and adjust Pistao rings. Replace as required.
7. Cylinder scratched, worn or scored. - Replace or repair as required.
8. Pistao scratched, worn or scored. - Repair or replace as required.

Relief valve vents pressure

1. Clogged or dirty inlet and/or discharge filter - replace filter element.
2. Valves leaking, broken, carbonized or loose. - Check valves. Clean and replace as required.
3. Automatic condensate drain valve defective. - Repair or replace as required.

Motor overload trips or draws excessive current

1. Oil viscosity too high - Drain existing lubricant from frame. Refill with proper lubricant.
2. Improper line voltage - Improper line voltage - Check line voltage, change lines as required.
3. Poor contact on motor terminals or starter connections - Ensure good contact on motor terminals and starter connections.
4. Improper starter heaters - Install proper starter heaters.
5. Poor power regulation (unbalanced line) - Consult local power company.
6. V-belt is pulled too tight - Adjust belt tension.
7. Valves leaking, broken, carbonized or loose. - Check valves. Clean and replace as required.
8. Automatic condensate drain valve defective. - Repair or replace as required.
9. Cylinder scratched, worn or scored. - Replace or repair as required.
10. Pistao scratched, worn or scored. - Repair or replace as required.
11. Connecting rod, Pistao pin or crankpin bearings worn or scored. - Inspect all. Repair or replace as required.
12. Defective ball bearings on crankshaft or motor shaft. - Check ball bearings. Replace as required.

Moisture in frame or rusting in cylinders

1. Detergent type lubricant being used - Drain existing lubricant from frame. Refill with specified lubricant.
2. Extremely light duty cycles - Run compressor for longer duty cycles.
3. Extremely wet gas - Install dryer.

Excessive starting and stopping

1. Gas leaks in piping (on compressor or external piping/system). - Check tubing and connections. Repair or replace as required.
2. Pressure switch differential is too narrow Adjust pressure switch to increase differential.
3. Automatic condensate drain valve defective. - Repair or replace as required.

Compressor runs excessively hot

1. Inadequate ventilation around belt wheel - Relocate compressor or add ventilation.
2. V-belt pulled too tight - Adjust belt tension.
3. Wrong belt wheel direction of rotation. - Check motor wiring for proper connections.
4. Valves leaking, broken, carbonized or loose. - Check valves. Clean and replace as required.

Compressor does not come up to speed

1. Loose belt wheel or motor pulley. Excessive end play in motor shaft. - Check belt wheel, motor pulley and shaft. Repair or replace as required.
2. Improper line voltage - Improper line voltage - Check line voltage, change lines as required.
3. Poor contact on motor terminals or starter connections - Ensure good contact on motor terminals and starter connections.
4. Improper starter heaters - Install proper starter heaters.
5. Defective ball bearings on crankshaft or motor shaft. - Check ball bearings. Replace as required.

Lights flicker and dim when compressor is running

1. Improper line voltage - Improper line voltage - Check line voltage, change lines as required.
2. Poor contact on motor terminals or starter connections - Ensure good contact on motor terminals and starter connections.
3. Improper starter heaters - Install proper starter heaters.
4. Poor power regulation (unbalanced line) - Consult local power company.

Abnormal Pistao, ring and cylinder wear

1. Clogged or dirty inlet and/or discharge filter - replace filter element.
2. Oil viscosity too low - Drain existing lubricant from frame. Refill with proper lubricant.
3. Oil viscosity too high - Drain existing lubricant from frame. Refill with proper lubricant.
4. Oil level too low - Add lubricant to frame to bring level up to an acceptable point.
5. Detergent type lubricant being used - Drain existing lubricant from frame. Refill with specified lubricant.
6. Extremely wet gas - Install dryer.

Gas and/or oil leaking from shaft seal

1. Shaft seal leaking, broken or improperly seated - Repair or replace as required.

Gas and/or condensate leaking through condensate drain system

1. Automatic Condensate drain valve defective.

Excessive noise when compressor is operated

1. Loose belt wheel or motor pulley. Excessive end play in motor shaft - Check belt wheel, motor pulley and shaft. Repair or replace as required.
2. Gas leaks in piping (on compressor or external piping/system) - Check tubing and connections. Repair or replace as required.
3. Valves leaking, broken, carbonized or loose - Check valves. Clean or replace as required.
4. Automatic condensate drain valve defective - Inspect drain valve. Repair or replace as required.
5. Connecting rod, Pistao pin or crankpin bearings worn or scored - Inspect all. Repair or replace as required.
6. Defective ball bearings on crankshaft or motor shaft - Check ball bearings. Replace as required.

Excessive lubricant consumption

1. Pistao rings damaged or worn (broken, rough, scratched, excessive end gap or side clearance).
2. Pistao rings not seated, stuck in grooves, or end gaps not staggered - Clean and adjust Pistao rings. Replace as required.
3. Cylinder scratched, worn or scored - Repair or replace as required.
4. Pistao scratched, worn or scored - Repair or replace as required.

Compressor is not starting or is very slow to start (motor is humming)

1. Excess pressure build up in discharge pipe because check valve is plugged or damaged. So check valve becomes a 2-way valve and air comes back into discharge pipe. Pressure switch will release air until it gets to 95psi, then close the release. proxima time compressor starts, it will have 95psi back pressure. Replace check valve.
2. Pressure switch is malfunctioning and not releasing air from compressor properly - Replace pressure switch.
3. Pressure switch release valve is not working - Replace release valve.
4. No oil, compressor is seized - Replace compressor.

Low air - tools won't work; used to work fine

1. Element inside the water trap may be plugged - Replace element.
2. Air filter plugged up - Blow off or replace filter element.
3. V-Belt too loose and cannot keep up - Replace belt.
4. Air line leaking - Repair or replace as required.
5. Pressure switch is malfunctioning and shutting off prematurely - Replace as pressure switch.
6. If there is a dryer after the compressor, the dryer may be frozen and air is not going through; open air dryer and turn regulator clockwise 1/2 turn at a time to decrease temperature; if water passing through the dryer turn clockwise to cool down.
7. Filter element in water drain (inside dryer) may be clogged - Replace filter element.
8. Autodrain pUltimoic float (inside dryer) may not be working due to oil/dirt contentt in air line - Replace float.

ALL ABOVE INFORMATION ARE COLLECTED FROM INTERNET.
PLEASE TELL US IF IT’S YOUR OWN CONTENTS WITH COPYRIGHT. WE WILL DELETE IT. THANKS!